Nostalgia

Su candy: A Shanghai specialty

This particular brand is also marketed in Japan

Do you remember the first time you were a kid and ate a piece of candy that made you feel so happy you could run through a field of sunflowers? A candy that was so good the mere sight of it transcends you back to that very first time? If you know what I’m talking about, then you would understand it is rare to find a candy that conjures up feelings of nostalgia in adulthood, as I have found in Shanghai’s specialty, Zhimasu, or sesame flaky candy.

I love candy, but Shanghai’s sesame candy is my favorite. The first time I came to visit Shanghai in 2002 I picked up an unassuming white package with Zhimasu written in bold Chinese letters in the front, about the length of my first finger. The candy is the color of black ground sesame seeds, cut into fourths, sometimes with black sesame seeds embedded in it. Gently placing the powdery consistency of the candy in my mouth, the sesame flavor immediately melts and dissolves into a light creamy consistency of sesame goodness. My eyes rolled back into my eye sockets. Lord, I have died and gone to heaven!

Quick facts about Shanghai’s sesame candy, Zhimasu:

Fact 1: Shanghai’s sesame candy is hand-made and has over 100 years of history.

Fact 2: Shanghai’s sesame candy originated from the ancestors of Zhang Caigen, whom were also the creators of the pear syrup candy, a famous Shanghai specialty.

Fact 3: Since Shanghai is a relevantly young city, its major influences for the sesame flaky candy are from Suzhou, Hangzhou, and Yangzhou.

Fact 4: What makes the sesame flaky candy different from those from other countries is its consistency. While the sesame flaky candy from Suzhou is a molten sugar candy covered with white sesame seeds, in Hangzhou, the sesame flaky candy is deep fried.

“Many young people do not particularly have feelings of nostalgia attached to this candy,” explained Shanghai native Reika Li. “It is a candy that is treasured by people from an older generation. However, it is still a famous candy because of its long history. When foreigners come they will want to purchase Shanghai specialties to bring back home, and this candy is one of them.”

“A ton of this sesame flaky candy is made each day at my manufacturing company,” exclaims 6th generation owner and distributor, Ms. Qian Pei Li. “We have 50 variations of this candy. Our best seller is the sesame flavored flaky candy, peanut flavored the second, and rose and green bean flavored candy the third.”

It takes approximately 5 hours to make the flaky candy by hand, with the sugar being heated at 120° C. The process of making the candy involves special techniques incorporating sugar, flour and sesame (or various other flavors). Thereafter, the candy is cooled at 27° C and cut. One batch makes approximately 15 pieces which are then hand-cut and wrapped.

Despite all the work it requires to make the candy, it is still relatively cheap given its long history and tasty nature at RMB12 a gram. The candy is distributed at No. 5 Nanjing Road, Yuyuan market, subway stops, Pudong and Hongqiao airports. Happy eating!